Types of Candles
Votives
- Short and stubby. These are usually burned in a small cup or
container and used to provide a light for several hours. They
are less space consuming, so more candles can be placed on the altar
at the same time.
Taper
- Long, slender
and very elegant and they come in many different lengths and
thicknesses. May be burned in a candle holder and/or may be
allowed to drip into a pie pan so the drippings can be read in a similar
manner as teal leaf readings.
Candle
in a Jar - Large,
long-lasting candle which is formed by pouring either colored wax into a
clear glass container or clear wax into a colored glass container.
These are the safest candles to burn unattended, providing the maker of
the candle took care to ensure that the wick runs in the center of the
candle. Although, you never want to just leave a burning candle
with no one around...that would be dangerous and foolish.
Male
and Female Figurine Candles
- Which come in black, white, green and red. Used to bind people
together or to separate them. Burned face to face, they melt into
each other to bind. Burned back to back so no wax mixes to bring
about a banishment.
Seven
Day Knob Candles -
A candle which is made with seven knobs in length. One knob is
burned each day for the duration of the spell.
Alter Candles
- These are usually taller and longer burning than the other candles
used plus these are lit first and extinguished last. One to the left
(female energies) and one the right (male energies) represent Deities.
Gold for male and silver for female.
Colours
The colour of the candle
should reflect the planetary aspect that is assigned to the incense you are going
to use.
Anointing the Candle
There are two general
methods which are used to anoint the candle.
a.
The first consists
of starting at the middle of the candle and anointing it to the top,
and then going back to the middle you would anoint down toward the
bottom. The principle behind this is that you are the center of
the candle sending your energy both upward into the spiritual planes
and downward into the physical.
b.
The second method is to
start at the top of the candle and draw an unbroken line down the
side, under it's base and back up the other side. When you reach
the top of the candle, you turn a 1/4 turn and trace another unbroken
line in the previous manner so the candle is "tied" to your purpose.
When using a candle in a
jar you would anoint it by placing your moistened finger inside and
rubbing clockwise, or counter clockwise as needed...
three times in a
circle in three sets to make up nine.
Making Your Own Candles
Candle making is a highly versatile
craft... one that encompasses unlimited opportunities for creativity.
Candles can be dipped, molded, rolled, fused, layered, sculptured or
any combination of processes. They may be coloured (dyed, painted or
tinted) within and without; they can be scented or can have embedded
materials such as beads or shells, coated or whipped (foamed).
An illustration of candle making
ingenuity and versatility is hot yellow-orange wax poured over small
ice cubes. When the ice melts and the wax sets, it leaves cavities
that look like Swiss cheese!
Basic requirements for candle
making are:
-
a place to work (it is too dangerous and
messy for the kitchen)
-
adequate storage space for materials
-
a relatively cool place to put finished
candles (they will sag in hot temperatures)
-
utensils to melt and blend the waxes,
molds and wax additives.
Startup supplies should include wax
(sold in sheets or slabs), colors, stearic acid, temperature gauge,
double broiler, a heating medium, molds and mold accessories (wick,
lead, clay, etc.).
The candle making process is not
complicated, but does require time and attention to detail for safety
reasons as well as product quality.
Melting wax is highly volatile and
can catch fire easily (this is why double broilers are used) if one
isn't very careful. In the standard molding process, raw wax is melted
and brought to about 180 degrees Fahrenheit.
During this time, certain additives
such as stearic acid, colors and scents are added. Meanwhile, the mold
is cleaned and sprayed with release (silicon). A wick inserted from
the bottom and tied to a stick across the top and the hole in the
bottom sealed with clay.
Note that the top of the mold
equates to the bottom of the candle, and vice versa! Heavy lead wires
(weights) are wrapped around the bottom of the mold.
The mold placed in a convenient
position to receive the hot wax. When the wax is ready it is slowly
and carefully poured down the side of the mold to prevent bubbles from
forming. The mold is filled to the top.
The remaining wax is kept at ready
temperature and used to refill the hollow that forms as the wax
shrinks, a natural result of the cooling process.
During this process the mold is
frequently placed in cool water to speed the cooling process (the
reason for the lead wire). If the candles meant to be hollow (like
hurricane candle), the still molten center is poured back as soon as
the sides cool to the desired thickness (about 1/2 inch). When cool,
the candle is removed from the mold, the wick trimmed and any final
touches made.
Molds can be solid plaster,
metal or metal shells, or flexible plastic. The flexible plastic and
metal molds are the most popular. It is difficult to make your own
molds for many projects. Most anything can be used for a mold -- from
hollowed out wet sand to paper cones.
There are unlimited variations that
can result in strikingly different and very impressive candles.
One is dipping a partially formed
candle into vats of different coloured wax, then peeling back layers
with a knife to reveal the contrasting colors and textures.
Another is filling a cavity in damp
sand with wax, which yields a candle with a sandy surface.
The
most glaring potential problem area in candle making is the danger of
fire from the wax. Don't even
THINK
of melting wax without a good double broiler and fire extinguisher
handy.
If
the wax were to boil over, splash onto an open flame (or red heating
element) a very serious fire could result. Anytime you are melting
wax, make sure it is watched
CONSTANTLY
and that it is not allowed to get too hot.
Safety tips for candle making
1.
Never leave children alone with
melting or melted wax because it does not boil or steam, they may not
realize how hot it is.
2.
Never leave hot wax alone.
3.
Never heat wax over 275° F, wax
flashes from liquid to flame at 375° F.
4.
Never let wax come in contact
with flames. If you develop a wax fire, treat it as you would a grease
fire. Do not throw water on it. Use a fire extinguisher (type ABC) or
if it is contained in a pan, cover with a lid, extinguish any heat
source and leave the lid in place until the area has cooled.
5.
Use a temperature gauge and always know what the temperature is at all
times.
6.
Always use the water bath method
of melting wax, never place your wax container directly on the heat
source. Also, use a wire rack to keep the wax container from resting
on the bottom of the water pan. Keep a close watch on the water level,
it will evaporate quickly and must be replenished frequently. When
done this way and properly supervised, you will eliminate any flash
potential.
7.
Don't pour wax down the drain, it
will block them.
Lynn